Southern Fried

August 5, 2013
With over a dozen cookbooks and two James Beard awards under his belt, Villas weighs in with another well-crafted work, this one focusing on the oily offerings to be found in his favorite part of the U.S. The simplicity of the title belies the diversity of the cuisine. Yes, nearly all of the 190 or so recipes involve some frying, but here frying can be as tricky as a turkey immersed in eight quarts of peanut oil, or as easy as a tablespoon of butter in a skillet to help along a cheese omelet. And the word “Southern” does not readily express the fact that several regional styles are addressed, including Creole, lowcountry, and Appalachian, and that the options include a mix of the traditional and the seriously traditional. So, there are oyster po’boys, flounder strips, and buttermilk hush puppies; but also Arkansas frog legs, brains, and eggs; and Carolina fried livermush (with ingredients that may surprise some non–Tar Heels). And, of course, there is chicken. Villas offers 10 entrees, free-ranging from classic Southern-fried to smothered with artichoke hearts. A beverage chapter would have been a welcomed addition but we are left thirsty. Sweets lovers fare better with a dessert section that includes bourbon peach turnovers and apricot-raisin crepes.

October 1, 2013
Fried foods lie at the heart of genuine Southern cooking, yet contemporary nutritional thought bristles at the very idea of cooking food in a pot of boiling oil. Villas rises to defense of the historically approved practice, noting that, when done correctly and with the right sorts of fats, fried foods need not clog arteries and expand waistlines. Beginning with basic guidance on the sorts of oils and the best equipment (often an old, deep cast-iron skillet), he explains how to cook deliciously and safely in both vegetable fats and lard, using either shallow-frying or deep-frying to produce crisp, not soggy or oily, meats, seafood, and vegetables. Archetypal Southern dishes, such as fried chicken, fried pies, and croquettes, all put in appearances, often in multiple variations. Since Americans on both sides of the Mason-Dixon line relish crisp fried foods, Villas' book, with its clear instructions, will surely reacha large audience.(Reprinted with permission of Booklist, copyright 2013, American Library Association.)